| 18.10.2009 |
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| I remember coming to Germany for the first time in May 2003. I was scared, devastated and kept on telling myself that the reason I was going to Germany was to get a good education that I could make use of back home in Kenya. My first big worry and equally wrong assumption was the food and the cold winter tales I had frequently heard of in Kenya. A Kenyan friend of mine told me winter in Germany is like being locked up in a freezer. So a week before I came, I put my hand in the freezer for a 5 minute experiment, just to get an idea of how cold it was really going to be. 2 minutes into my experiment, my hand was out and catching up on the hot Mombasa sun. Afterwards, I was dreading the winter even before I had boarded the plane heading north. But I was very wrong and was to discover another problem despite cold winters, different food and homesickness: That of the German language. Learning German is not easy. Anybody who has tried to master the language will speak of the horrors. From the 3 famous articles, "der, die und das" to terrible grammatical rules that will leave any ambitious student with a headache. I personally have a love-hate relationship with the German language although people say I speak "ferry gut German." Luckily for me, I was able to get rid of the terrible "ich" after a drilling Sprechtraining from the Deutsche Welle. Sprechtraining is German for speech training. Nevertheless, I do have my own share of incorrect intonation (Betonung) and pronunciation. My best example is however the always eminent and terrible "Umlauts," a true challenge for any foreign speaker of the language. Umlauts are those vowels which have some strange dots on top of them, like ä,ö,ü. They are pronounced like ae (Käse), oe (Möchte) or ue (Müller) or can simply be pronounced long. Here is an interesting link explaining the Umlauts. Furthermore, learning German also involves mastering the never-ending problem of "Du" and "Sie." Deciding whether to use the informal or formals "you" is a perennial headache for German learners. Anyone over 16 must, according to polite rules, be "Siezen" until they give you permission to "Duzen" them. But the guideline always differs according to age, manner of dress, and where you meet the people. When dealing with young people, a Du is in most cases appropriate. However, in a business meeting, the work environment, and when dealing with older people, the Sie form immediately applies. Avoid the mistake of using a Du with someone in uniform, such as a member of the police force for instance. Personally, I learned German mainly by doing. After 2 months of Goethe Institute and 1 month at the Colonaden School in Hamburg, and with just enough grammar to keep my interest high, I decided it was time to learn the language the simple way: by watching cartoon networks. The good thing about learning a language by watching kids programs is that the characters speak slowly and clearly. However, this endeavour demands patience. But why should anyone learn German? Here a few reasons why it is worth the try: first of all, it is the widely spoken language in Europe, that of "Dichter and Denker" - the world's greatest Poets and Philosophers of the 18th and 19th century, in addition, Germany is world's 3rd strongest economy and number 1 export nation, meaning that being acquainted with German creates business opportunities, furthermore, Germans are innovators and great Engineers, and last but not least, big holiday spenders and are found in all the corners of the world! But there is hope for all German learners out there: Since German is spelled phonetically, learning the system of sounds helps to predict how each word is spoken and written. Check out Deutsche Welle's German language courses and explore the language while making all the mistakes you can want right here. |
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| 01.10.2009 |
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| The German "high society" and "pop scene" totally adores America. Germans want to be like Americans, dress like them, talk like them, dance like them and even sing like them. German TV is full of American soaps and programs such as "DSDS Deutschland sucht den Superstar" a direct equivalent to American Idol. They simply can't get enough of Americans. Unless of course they are whining about how bad and unhealthy American food is. A friend of mine who recently came back from the States claims that the only food you can eat there is burgers and fries (as well as a variety of other fast-foods), which he believes accounts to the problem of obesity. But he was also quick to note that California (specifically, Hollywood) is the place where all the slender girls are. Well I don't really agree with him on that but then that's an issue I will devour in an upcoming blog. A look at Germany's youth will most likely confirm the assumption. Look around and you will see young Germans dressed up in swagging jeans, hoods and heavy bling (hip-hop-like jewellery) like the G's they see in hip hop videos. Even worse, listen to German hip-hop and you will see what I mean. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HUY1yK0NHM). Even the way of talk is changing. It is very common among German youth to talk cooler and with a fine edge of gangsterism. Words like Ghetto, Swagger, Drogen (drugs), Krass (cool), Fuffies (Krass women, and I will refrain from using the B word here) Use of American words is also getting common. Sentences such as Wir chillen in der Crib (we're chilling in the crib) are finding more way into the German language. Alone these examples and the use of the N word always leave me wondering what the Germans youth really know about the-so-called-hard-ghetto life evident among American hip hoppers. Life can indeed be tough in Germany, but not as rowdy as in America. Notable hip-hoppers openly talk about their gunshot wounds and making it from rags to riches. That's something I have at least not heard of in Germany as of now. Even in politics, Germans don't want to be left out when it comes to supporting their favourite politicians. Has anyone seen the German version of Obama Girl? I am sure you all remember the Obama Girl that became an internet sensation during his campaign for her "crush on Obama" song. Well the Germans followed suit during the election and also had a very own Steini-Girl. In the video, a love declaration for Germany's Foreign Minister and (former) presidential candidate Walter-Frank Steinmeier, the unnamed girl sings of his "coiled masculinity," while his main opponent and Germany's re-elected Chancellor Angela Merkel is dismissed as being "too masculine." Check out the video here. Well at least Obama's Girl can speak of success here. Steini did not necessarily win the elections but he surely won the heart of a law student from Berlin. |
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| 24.09.2009 |
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| When I first came to Germany in 2005, I was surprised to discover that every large town was able to boast its own metro system. With only two such systems outside of London and busses being both hideously expensive and unreliable, a car is essential equipment for anyone wishing to be mobile in Britain. Lacking this during my teen years, I was dependant upon the kind will of my father who often served as my personal taxi service. Thanks Dad! But after using the Hamburg and Berlin metros as my primary mode of transport during my time there, I came to value the freedom they awarded. Although the first weeks were filled with trying to decipher unintelligible maps and timetables, travelling in the metro soon became second nature. If I was ever bored, I could simply hop on the metro and be in the centre after only 5 minutes. It may sound strange, but it was an experience that I enjoyed. It was a rare opportunity to relax, listen to some music, and read a book. But sometimes it pays not to be too engrossed in your book as every journey on the metro is an adventure into the unknown. Perhaps the most interesting aspect of any such adventure is the people that one encounters. In no other sphere of life do so many people of such differing backgrounds meet in such a closely-confined space. One can gain interesting insights by quietly observing how these people interact and behave. Isn't it strange how we desperately try to avoid the stare of those we are travelling with? Or how we become visibily uncomfortable when our personal space is invaded and someone takes the empty seat next to us? There is also a wealth of interesting personalities, familiar faces that one encounters every day. A journey in the Berlin metro is sometimes accompanied by free music as a man carrying a battered accordion and a small boy jump into the carriage. Some passengers appear visibly pleased to hear some musical acompaniement and gleefully drop a euro or two into the paper cup that the boy holds under their noses. Others are not so pleased and do their best to ignore the boy as he walks down the carriage. For these buskers, the metro provides an income and puts food on the table. At night, the hustle and bustle of the metro fades as the stations become home to the city's homeless, providing relative warmth and shelter from elements. But their lives are not the only ones which revolve around the metro. Indeed, it also affects our lives in ways we don't even consider. Our lives are dictated by the departure and arrives times of the metro. Our primary task each morning is to ensure that we are ready on time and don't miss the train to work. And if this train is late, then it's the end of the world! Any night on the tiles is governed by the time the last metro departs to carry our drunken selves home. Our only exercise comes either from running to catch the train when we're late or having to stand and hold on tight in a packed out carriage on the way home from work. So the next time you're travelling on a German metro system, take a moment to consider how difficult our lives would be without it. Instead of cursing when the train is late, we should perhaps be thankful that it arrives at all. |
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| 17.09.2009 |
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| Being a Kenyan in Germany really pays off sometimes. We do shine at times, despite how strange it may sound. Forget all about the clichés that well-groomed and good-looking Africans must be into some sort of illegal activities only because they look "different," or to put it simply, "cultivated and European." You may be wondering why I would say such a thing considering all the cultural differences that exist between the two countries. But a recent encounter left me speechless and made me aware of how some people in Germany view the "different" sorts of African foreigners. Like many other times before it happened again, only this time it was the icing on the cake. While en-route to New York a couple of weeks ago, I was sitting in the train on my way to Frankfurt International Airport and doing my best to multitask by texting a friend while reading a newspaper. Then, two old German ladies got on and chose to take the empty seats next to me, something that hardly happens with the older generation. And to my surprise, they did not even clinch their handbags like most automatically do when I opt to sit next to one on the train. What followed explained their kind attitude toward me. After a few stealthy glances in my direction, one of the ladies, Ingrid, turned to me and asked bluntly, "Sorry to bother you. You look very different to many Africans I see in my day to day life. Could it be that your father is a 'Stammeshäuptling'?" "Wow!" I thought. "She did not just say that. Stay composed and act normal." I felt like laughing out loud but being the person they assumed me to be, I could not of course risk my well and hard-earned reputation among the well-informed German elite. "Stammeshäuptling" is the German word for an African chief, often used to refer to some sort of African king. Unfortunately, my father is not a Stammeshäuptling or anything of the sort, but such questions require imaginative answers. And so I said proudly, "Oh yes, I am the daughter of a king. Normally," I added, "I always travel with my entourage of servants and bodyguards but they are all on holiday now." Still can't believe they bought that answer. You should have seen the women's reactions and the sudden fear written all over their faces! They turned as pale as death and looked like they had seen a ghost! Well it's indeed understandable that most people don't always get to encounter a princess in their day to day life. Luckily for me, we arrived at Frankfurt Airport and I was relieved to say a royal goodbye and wish the ladies a safe journey. I wandered off to catch my flight to New York, wondering whether the next question would be whether I am a singer or rapper. |
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| 17.09.2009 |
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| Beer isn't exactly without significance in German culture. You're probably aware of that already, but in case you aren't, there are any number of ways to confirm it. For me, a big source of confirmation is that, well, I drink beer here – instead of the mixed drinks or whatever else I'd usually have in the U.S. Cities and regions in Germany come to be identified with the types of beer that are produced in them, and Cologne and Düsseldorf (neighboring cities, separated by a 30 minute train ride) are no exception. Cologne is known for the beer it brews called "Kölsch" and Düsseldorf for its "Alt," which is darker – and better, if you ask me. By the way, good luck trying to find a Kölsch in Düsseldorf or vice versa. The cities are divided by a lot more than the beers they produce, though. Their proximity and long, complex histories with one another have created a rivalry that is sometimes joking and sometimes entirely serious. Many "Kölner" (people from Cologne) or "Düsseldorfer" will be happy to describe the other city's faults for you. The typical caricatures seem to go something like this: Düsseldorfer are wealthy, prissy and stuck-up, while Kölner are unrefined and have the added misfortune of living in such an ugly city. I can assure you that both descriptions verge on exaggeration. Anyway, a friend told me about a hilarious ad campaign that Früh, one of Cologne's best-known Kölsch breweries, sponsored. I checked out their website today, where they archive all of the billboards they have put up. The ads are arranged by year from 1992 to 2009, followed by a lone stand-out category: "Düsseldorf." Früh decided to run with the cities' rivalry and put up a series of ads picking on Düsseldorf's reputation, including pictures of a fresh glass of Kölsch bearing the words: "Now available in the most important villages around Cologne," or a gaudy, diamond-encrusted bottle opener declaring: "For Düsseldorf: now with an extra chic bottle opener." If you can read German, be sure to check them out. Some are pretty funny. My friend explained that Früh didn't get away with their campaign without retaliation, though. One of Düsseldorf's Alt breweries decided to put up its own billboard in Cologne: this time with glasses of its beer arranged in the shape of Cologne's world-famous landmark, its cathedral. And so the rivalry continues. |
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| 14.09.2009 |
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| Germans take recycling very seriously. Coming from an island where this concept is still in its infancy, I found their interest in saving the world most intriguing. Before my first stint in Germany, all of our waste landed into one large black bin and only recently have we started to catch up. Still, the range of recyclable materials is puny in comparison to our German counterparts over on the mainland. They are not newcomers to this arena. It was in the early 1990s that an elaborate system of separating waste into different categories was first introduced into German households. This is something that the Germans chose to follow with religious diligence and they are not afraid to point out if you've messed up. It's not unknown for neighbourly disputes to erupt over improper sorting. It is perhaps not surprising that the system and the pressure to adhere to the rules can be daunting for newcomers to Germany. To explain the system is beyond this scope of this post but suffice to say there are a multitude of different containers intended for different kinds of rubbish. Break one of the cardinal rules of rubbish separation, and you run the risk of being charged with gross recycling misconduct. But there appears to be some confusion over the classification of certain types of waste. Does a cigarette butt belong in the organic waste container for composting, or does it belong with the residual waste? Or the next time you are enjoying a cup of tea, consider how the teabag should be properly disposed of. A trivial matter on the face of it, but one which has no doubt been the subject of debate in many German households. Picture the scene. You have just enjoyed a nice cup of tea and are just about to dispose of the teabag. As it hangs over the organic container, however, a voice interjects, "you surely weren't going to dispose of the teabag without separating it were you?" So if we are going to be pedantic, then the tea leaves are organic waste, but what about the bag itself? Organic or paper? "And there is a label attached!" After carefully removing the small piece of paper, that is not the end of it. "But there is a staple in it! Doesn't that belong in the container for metal recycling?" But what about the piece of string? "In the paper-container? No, the wood-container!" Maybe there is a clear demand here for string-containers? This debate is a caricature of the German psyche. There exists a deep love of structure and rules. This may explain the German love affair with paperwork and maybe even their ausweisen (proving one's identity) addiction. My Polish girlfriend experienced this first-hand when she received a letter from the Ausländeramt (lit: office for foreigners) requesting she come in person and produce a dozen documents proving both her identity and income. Why this was at all necessary was unclear, although she put it down to the German need to "cause problems." She is not the only one who has experienced such "problems." Why, for example, is it necessary for me to produce my passport whenever I enter a certain bank to try to withdraw my money? Apparently my signature isn't proof enough of my identity! Likewise I was puzzled by the request to not only show my passport, but also certification of residency when joining the local library. Although annoying, perhaps we can forgive the Germans for this oddity when we receive well-run public and private services in return. |
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| 10.09.2009 |
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| While waiting around at the train station the other day, I flipped through a travel guide written for German tourists headed to the States. Check one of these out some time, if you haven't – it's always good for a chuckle to see your culture through the eyes of a curious tourist. The section on food was great in this book, complete with the typical measure of horror at the size of portions in many American restaurants (especially the sodas). A German friend of mine studied in the States and laughed as he recalled glancing at some travel guides back then, written for Americans going to Germany. His favorite line: if you're invited to a party, make sure that you come with plenty of things to complain about, otherwise people will assume you're shallow. To be sure, the guide was tongue-in-cheek, but we both agreed there's some truth to the advice. I could write a lot about the attitude the author was getting at because I think it's fundamental to the German outlook. It's not that I want to say that Germans have a fundamental affinity for complaining or negativity, but that's one side of the coin. Maybe a better way to put it would be that Germans tend toward caution – decisions are typically made slowly, deliberately and very critically. Fellow OI blogger Joel has also noted this in a lot of his entries, like in his entry on defusing bombs, which, admittedly, is an activity where some degree of caution is probably appropriate. Working in a Gymnasium (German high school) last year, I was struck by the extent to which my students already shared this attitude. Often, the teachers would use class time to host extensive discussions about the direction of the class, grading policies, or how a particular test was structured. Even the ninth graders would rouse themselves from their general apathy and sleepiness to weigh in and debate each other on how the class should be run. On the one hand, the level of input teachers expected from students was novel for me, but I also found the intensity with which they wanted to arrive at the right method of proceeding interesting. I've found that a lot of Germans joke about this tendency too – or are at least note that it exists. Of course, there are connections between Germany's post-war heritage and history and the attitude I describe. I think that's an important part of the story, especially when talking about politics. But what does all of this have to do with complaining at parties? Well, I think it's easy for "German cautiousness" to verge into pessimism. Like someone I met from Poland who now lives in Cologne said to me recently, "I like a lot about Germany, but it frustrates me sometimes that people quibble so much instead of focusing on possibilities and being open to change." Then again, the same attitude can also be a great asset for the country, and it's essential to a lot of the institutions for which Germany is renowned. I have a hard time putting my finger on it exactly, but when I'm here, I have the sense that things are generally well-administered and well-planned. The reassurance that comes with that is certainly a good thing. |
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| 01.09.2009 |
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| Andrew Shale was born and raised in the English county of Leicestershire. He studied European Studies and German, during which he spent his third year as a Foreign Language Assistant in Hamburg. After leaving student life behind, he returned once more to Germany after winning a scholarship to work in the European Commission in Berlin. Now, Andrew is a trainee at the Deutsche Welle where he is learning the art of journalism. When he is not working, he can be found either engrossed in a book or imporoving his Polish language skills. | ||||||||
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| 01.09.2009 |
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| Kenyan born Nancy Wayua is currently a trainee at the Deutsche Welle. She studied media and journalism at the University of Hamburg in Germany, attaining a scholarship to complete her studies in the UK at the University of Sheffield. Her hobbies are fashion, music, traveling, photography and sports. In her free time, Nancy loves cooking and working on her book. |
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| 31.08.2009 |
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 Many Germans love Hamburg, and that's a big reason I was excited to visit last weekend. In talking with people here about their country, I've heard Hamburg mentioned again and again as a favorite place. In some ways, this surprised me. Before living here, Hamburg wasn't really on my radar at all. When I thought about German cities, Berlin, Munich and Frankfurt came to mind, and I sense that this is probably true of a lot of other foreigners. However, when Germans talk about Berlin or Munich, I note a lot of ambivalence. Non-Berliners typically describe the city by admitting that it may be lively or very international but then proceeding to decry Berliners' arrogance or how sprawling and ugly the city can be. A friend of mine from Frankfurt went further and, against my defense of Berlin, said, "The city has a kind of kitschy-carnival quality that, of course, attracts lots of Americans and other foreigners, but ultimately it's uncivilized, unsuitable for careers, and uninteresting." A different friend from Hesse put it a little more gently and remarked, "I think that Germans tend to be secretly rather provincial at heart, and that goes some way in explaining their preference for the less international, more traditional Hamburg to Berlin." Munich and Hamburg have a certain amount in common, but Munich doesn't seem to fare as well with the general populace. Both cities have traditionally been well-off. Hamburg's harbor position led it to be a center of trade and import, while Munich has long been a major hub of business and tourism. In contrast to Hamburg, though, I've heard lots of people write Munich off as "schickimicki" – a tough word to translate. I'd say it refers to behavior that's snobby and ostentatious, especially with regard to class or money. In contrast, Hamburg has earned a reputation as a very down-to-earth city with kind, if not always openly friendly, inhabitants. I can't say much about the people in the city, since I spent the entire time with other non-Hamburgers, and after all, I was only there for two days. Although we stayed with two people who live there now, they are originally from Mainz and Paris respectively. I can say I enjoyed the city and appreciated why so many people have described it as beautiful. It is very green – depending on where you are, it's hard to believe it's the second biggest city in the country because you see trees in so many directions. We spent the afternoon on Saturday engaged in a favorite Hamburg pastime by relaxing on one of the many waterfront areas in the city. A great weekend with great hosts, but I'm not ready to give up my preference for Berlin just yet… (Above: a tree outside of the Ernst Barlach house). |
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| 21.08.2009 |
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 Last fall, someone in Frankfurt remarked to me, "You have to understand that Europeans still live less as members of particular countries and more as members of their social classes." The conversation stuck with me, and I've thought a lot this year about whether he was right. On the face, I was sceptical. Part of what's striking about Europe for someone like me from the huge and homogeneous Midwest is the cultural variety here. These cultural differences are, of course, often tied to particular regions and countries. The character of the areas around Frankfurt and Cologne differs substantially for instance, but still less so than, say, between Spain and Germany. On the other hand, maybe the regional differences I mention can ultimately be traced back to class differences, and that's what he wanted to point out. Getting to the bottom of that would probably be a bit much for this entry (or even 20 blog entries), but I thought about what he said especially after I had travelled in Switzerland and Austria this winter and spring. I found that people tend to identify strongly along national lines and distinguish themselves sharply from the other two countries, despite sharing linguistic and cultural heritages at least to some extent. Differences in language and dialect often get brought up when talking about the three countries. Personally, I really liked the dialects I heard in Switzerland and Austria – both of which are a bit more lilting and have a kind of sing-song quality that you don't hear in High German. One is, however, hard-pressed to find Germans that like the dialects there, and the dislike cuts both ways. If you read German, check out this blog on the so-called "German invasion" in Zurich and this "Zürcher's" reaction. As he explains, "High German was never, is not and will never be our real language" – rather, it was an artificial chore endured in school, and the prospect of speaking it with foreigners is far less appealing to him than just speaking English or French. The relationship between the three countries can be vexed for reasons that go beyond language – a friend even told me about a recent article in a Zurich paper titled, "Do we hate the Germans really?" Needless to say, Germany and Austria also have a complicated relationship historically. Travelling in Austria, I encountered more than a few people who described Germans as arrogant, which may have its basis in how often Germans say Austria is largely provincial and not so interesting to them. Ultimately, it's all a matter of scope when talking about variations in culture. I mean, I'd probably distinguish myself sharply from someone in the rural South when talking about American culture, but if the scope expands to compare the US with China, then I suddenly find myself having more in common with a "Red Stater" than I thought. The same would probably be true when comparing German-speaking Europe with another part of the world. Even though I won't pretend to have any final answers on the role of class and nationality in the relationships described above, the interplay between Germany, Austria and Switzerland is definitely interesting in this respect. (Pictures- above: Zurich on a very cold day; below: the outskirts of Vienna)  |
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| 18.08.2009 |
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| Lately, I've been looking around at some other blogs that discuss Germany from an outsider's perspective. The German Way is worth checking out. The writers have all spent significant time in Germany and have written on everything from some of the bigger issues also covered in our blog to things like noise laws and raising kids as an expatriate. The blog is part of a broader website targeted at foreigners travelling or living in Germany. A recent entry about attitudes toward nudity in Germany made me chuckle. It's funny to me how often this gets brought up – both when I'm talking with Germans and with other Americans who have lived here. For Germans that I've talked to, it has to do with a paradox they perceive about American culture: many Americans see their country as the paragon of freedom but nevertheless have prudish or rigid expectations about public morality. I don't think I'm especially prudish, but that doesn't mean I was immune from a couple of surprises when I first moved here. I remember going for a swim late last summer in the afternoon and noticing two businessmen in suits stroll over to the benches at the side of the pool. I was puzzling over what they could be up to – lost on the way to a meeting? So glad to leave work early that they forgot to change? As you can guess, they proceeded to strip down and change into their swimming suits. Don't worry – I managed not to have a puritanical freak-out and drown, especially since no one else seemed to notice or care. In fact, I find the nonchalance here about the issue refreshing. Anyway, check out the German Way blog for more glimpses into Germany. This weekend I'm heading north and visiting Hamburg for the first time to go to a party with some acquaintances – I'm excited! |
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